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In China, the ‘Great American’ Burger Now Features Australian Beef


Geng Xiaoyun, the owner of Kunyuan restaurant in Beijing, has removed his popular salt-baked chicken feet, or “phoenix talons,” from the menu due to a 30% price increase caused by tariffs on American imports. Geng praises American chicken feet for their superior texture and flavor compared to alternatives from Brazil or Russia, which he finds inferior. He hopes to reintroduce the American delicacy once prices decrease, contingent on the political climate remaining stable.

Tensions between China and the U.S. threaten the recent 90-day tariff pause agreed upon in Geneva, with both sides accusing each other of violating terms. The Chinese Commerce Ministry pointed to recent U.S. export controls on AI chips as undermining the agreement, following President Donald Trump’s accusations of China not adhering to commitments. As relations sour, American agricultural products are increasingly disappearing from Chinese eateries and stores, with alternatives gaining prominence.

For instance, Home Plate, a Beijing restaurant known for American barbecue, stopped serving U.S. beef last month due to tariff-induced price hikes. Instead, they now source beef from Australia, which benefits from zero tariffs under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement, although there are safeguard limits on those imports. Liu Li, a beef supplier at Sanyuanli market for 30 years, noted that U.S. beef prices have surged by 50% due to the trade conflict, lamenting the loss of American beef’s favored taste and quality during this trade war.

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